| Though many travelers may skip out entirely on the | | | | 9am, PEOPLE WATCH |
| north western portion of Argentina and prefer instead | | | | Though it is true that Argentineans don't really 'do' |
| to stick to the well-trodden areas of Patagonia, | | | | breakfast, some excellent and filling meals can be |
| Buenos Aires and Iguazu; Salta is a rewarding | | | | found at the cafes surrounding the 9 de Julio Plaza. |
| discovery well worth the long pampa-lined drive to get | | | | Fresh fruit smoothies, cheesy tostados and espresso- |
| there. Set in an incredibly varied landscape of lush | | | | machine coffee prepared the way you like are |
| jungle, arid high-altitude salt flats and spectacular | | | | standard at almost any of the European-style patio |
| multicolored gorges and rock formations, the region of | | | | cafés around the square- morning paper not |
| Salta has an even more unique capital city to embody | | | | included! |
| the diversity of its history, architecture and residents. | | | | 10am, HOW THE OTHER HALF LIVES |
| Known by Argentineans as Salta la Linda (Salta the | | | | After picking up some fresh mangoes, grapes and |
| Fair) this bustling city is a fine mix of the old and new, | | | | cactus fruit from one of the ubiquitous fresh fruit carts |
| where European café culture and fine colonial | | | | wheeled around the city, hop on a bus heading to the |
| architecture interacts daily with a central American flair | | | | city's exclusive detached suburb of San Lorenzo, |
| for art and living; creating an ever-changing personality | | | | where the wealthiest Argentines keep their summer |
| and identity for this entertaining city which, as of yet, | | | | homes. Lining the gentle slope of this leafy |
| has been little altered by the tourism wave. | | | | neighborhood that leads to the public park and |
| FRIDAY | | | | restaurant at the top are a series of bougainvillea and |
| 1pm, GET REAL | | | | ivy-covered white brick colonial mansions, many of |
| Grab a delicious and authentic Salteno lunch at Dona | | | | which also have pools and tennis courts on the |
| Salta's, located at the heart of historical and cultural | | | | extensive grounds visible in gaps along their high adobe |
| Salta and just across the street from the magnificent | | | | walls. |
| rose red and cream-colored towers of the Iglesia San | | | | 11am, GAUCHO LUXE |
| Francisco. Serving what even Argentinean reviewers | | | | Walk the approximately two mile self-guided mountain |
| call "the best empanadas in the country," Dona Salta's | | | | trail through the lush green quebrada de San Lorenzo, |
| also serves a variety of other Creole and Argentine | | | | or talk to the park ranger at the entrance who can |
| dishes, including mouth-watering pumpkin and beef | | | | give you advice about local families offering guided |
| locro, humitas, tamales, and a chef's menu that | | | | horseback rides through the gorge. Take your time |
| changes monthly, depending on the dictates of holiday | | | | admiring the gorgeous mountaintop views, hunting for |
| and seasonal specialties. | | | | ripe avocados fallen from the trees by the disused |
| 2pm, CULTURE TIME | | | | stables, and soak your feet from a bridge over the |
| Stroll off the food coma by walking the short few | | | | cooling stream that runs along the trail. Follow the loop |
| blocks from lunch down calle Cordoba, turning onto | | | | leisurely for as long as you like, knowing that a hearty |
| Caseros, which will lead you straight to the city's leafy | | | | lunch of pasta, fresh steak or sandwiches is waiting |
| Plaza 9 de Julio. Dotted with commemorative statues | | | | for you at the peaceful creek side restaurantEl |
| and fragrant orange trees, bordered on all sides by | | | | Duende. Split across three levels of native wood |
| sidewalk cafes and historical buildings; the plaza serves | | | | furniture and decking, El Duende is an established |
| as the main meeting area for much of the city's | | | | neighborhood haunt, curled idyllically on a grassy lawn |
| cultural and social events. Head directly to the Museum | | | | along the same stream that runs through the |
| of High Altitude Archaeology (MAAN), housed in an | | | | sub-tropical gorge further uphill. |
| ornate colonial two-story peach building facing onto the | | | | 9pm, HIGH PLAINS GONE GOURMET |
| plaza. Though the museum's most popular display is | | | | Give into Argentine tradition and have an early-ish |
| the mummified bodies of three child sacrifices found | | | | dinner at one of the city's most popular restaurants, |
| on the summit of the Lliullaillaco Volcano, there are | | | | José Balcarce. Serving a mouth-watering menu |
| many other fascinating and informative displays | | | | of creative modern takes on traditional high-plain |
| regarding the cultural history of Salta's high plains | | | | Andean cuisine, this elegant restaurant led by chef Lalo |
| dwellers. | | | | Angelina has recently begun making waves on the |
| 5pm, SUNSET/MOONRISE | | | | developing Salteña foodie scene. Popular and |
| After visiting the museum, take advantage of the | | | | more original fusion recipes include llama carpaccio and |
| central location to stroll the storefronts that border the | | | | creamy quinoa-topped llama steak, surrounded by |
| plaza, where artisans and jewelry makers display their | | | | Andean potatoes and fresh asparagus. Opened in |
| handcrafted wares. Additionally, pop into any of the | | | | 2001 by a team of chefs, this restaurant is proud to |
| fine art galleries in this area, many of which deal not | | | | include the freshest and most seasonal dishes in its |
| only in traditional canvas landscapes and portraits, but | | | | ever-changing menu, most of which come from the |
| also in creative art, like minutely detailed dolls, stone and | | | | local agricultural communities of Tilcara and |
| wood mobiles, colorful weavings and hand-painted wall | | | | Humahuaca. |
| ornaments. Relax briefly at a sidewalk cafe for a | | | | 10pm, TANGO TIME |
| coffee and alfajor to recharge the batteries before | | | | If in the city on a Saturday, tango the night away at |
| taking the teleferico (Avenida San Martin y H. | | | | the popular milonga of Paseo de las Poetas, one of |
| Yrigoyen) to the summit of Cerro San Bernadino. | | | | only five open air tango venues in Argentina. Entrance |
| Snuggle up to your loved one and watch the | | | | is free, with live music starting at around 7 pm |
| transformation of the panorama as the city and | | | | (Argentine time, about 8) and continuing until midnight. |
| surrounding Andean foothills fade into darkness; faint | | | | Gather with the locals and enjoy the plaza experience. |
| twinkling lights replacing the sunny daytime flashes of | | | | If unsure about your tango skills, take a class at El |
| gold towers and glossy windows. | | | | Atico, open Tuesdays and Thursdays for classes |
| 10pm, TRUST THE TRADITION | | | | from 7 pm onward. |
| Spend the evening in one of the city's greatest | | | | SUNDAY |
| institutions: La Casona del Molino. Originally built in 1671, | | | | 11am, CITY HANGOVER |
| this crumbling colonial mansion (now sans grain mill) is | | | | Enjoy an espresso and fresh orange juice at a cafe |
| one of the liveliest places in Salta to enjoy a traditional | | | | on the city's bohemian calle Balcarce- forming the |
| pena, or live music show. Pass around a deliciously | | | | heart of the city's artistic community. Located within |
| potent Cafayate wine on the veranda while tucking | | | | blocks of the train station where the Tren a las Nubes |
| into a hearty Argentine steak before heading out; or | | | | departs, this stretch of 7 or 8 blocks began 100 years |
| alternatively, stay to watch the pena show in an | | | | ago as the cultural centre of the city, unfortunately |
| audience of fellow travelers, young college students, | | | | falling into disrepair over the years, then only to be |
| and life-long Salta residents. The festive atmosphere is | | | | rescued 10 years ago by the city's current mayor. The |
| tangible the minute you sweep aside the creaky entry | | | | name Balcarce, however, is now synonymous with 'hip |
| gate and walk up the path; already the windpipes and | | | | nightspot,' serving as the centre of Salta's vibrant |
| upbeat zamba rhythm (Salta's answer to the samba) | | | | nightlife; with loads of chic and character-laden venues, |
| can be heard pounding through the flaking walls. | | | | including La Estacion, which is housed in a converted |
| SATURDAY | | | | movie theatre. |
