Hello From Toronto: A Bike Tour Through The Don Valley, Leaside, Salsa On St. Clair And Sunnyside Beach

mmery biking adventures through Toronto continue.of the most distinctive features of Toronto’s
This morning I packed my backpack and as usual Itopography is a multitude of deep ravines that
entered the Taylor Creek Park system. Heading downcriss-cross the city, have remained largely untouched
into the lush green river valley that is fully closed in byby development and provide a natural oasis in this
trees and bushes on both sides is always such a greatdensely populated metropolis. These ravines were
feeling, as if the big city was miles away.formed when rivers and creeks cut deep gouges into
A few kilometers west my trail joined up with the Donthe glacial deposits that were left over after the last
Valley biking trail and I started to ride south. But insteadice age about 12,000 years ago. Due to the danger of
of heading all the way down to Toronto’sflooding these ravines are largely uninhabitable and
lakefront, I saw an old road branching off to the righthave remained virtually completely in their natural state.
north of Pottery Road and I thought I would just ride inToday, Toronto’s ravine lands are protected by
there and see what I could discover. I had nevermunicipal bylaws.
before left the main trail and was curious to exploreCedarvale Park is located in one of those ravines and
this new area. Actually, I thought I would arrive at theriding westwards I looked up to admire the structure of
Don Valley Brickworks, the leftovers of an industrialthe Bathurst Street Bridge. I arrived at the western end
brick making complex dating back to the late 1880sof Cedarvale Park where a cricket match was in full
that was closed down some time ago. The bricksswing. Back on city streets I cycled south into a St.
from this quarry were used on many famous TorontoClair West neighbourhood called Hillcrest Village which
landmarks, including Casa Loma, Osgoode Hall andwas just celebrating Latin culture with its big annual
Queens Park (the Ontario Legislature building). Thefestival: Salsa on St. Clair.
green space surrounding the empty buildings has beenFirst launched in 2005 Salsa on St. Clair has become a
turned into a public park by the city.popular street festival that features all sorts of Latin
But as I continued the road turned into a narrowmusic performances, street vendors, Latin American
pathway that crossed a field and the path starteddelicacies and special events. Salsa lessons, jumping
taking me in a northwesterly direction, away from thecastles, children’s soccer competitions and all
Brickworks. Now I was really wondering where thissorts of free samples and giveaways enchanted the
path was going to lead. After crossing some morecrowds.
meadows the path took me into a forested areaFrom here I cycled south on Christie Street and then
where the narrow trail continued, sometimes overheaded over to Ossington and south to Queen Street.
roots and stones, sometimes beside some railwayIn a small neighbourhood park I ran across a large
tracks. Now you might think that it could be quitegroup of teenagers dressed up as medieval knights
dangerous for a woman by herself riding these trails,who were practicing their jousting skills. Sometimes
but I actually felt quite safe. The only people IToronto is truly like a box of chocolates: you never
encountered were a father and daughter team whoknow what you’re gonna get…Once on
were enjoying their own little mountain bike adventure.Queen Street I cycled past recently renovated
I kept riding through the forest, up and down and atlandmarks like the Drake Hotel and the Gladstone
some point I saw a road just above the embankmentHotel into the Parkdale neighbourhood, one of the most
that I was cycling beside, but my suspense grew as tocolourful areas in Toronto.
where I would actually end up. Finally I saw an openingThe neighbourhood underwent a serious decline and
in a fence at the edge of the forest and I realized I hadtoday features a large aIn the late 1800 Parkdale was
popped up at the southeastern end of the Loblawsan upscale residential suburb of Toronto that featured
Supermarket in Leaside. This was quite a bit furthergreat Victorian mansions and superb views of Lake
north than I had anticipated.Ontario.
So back on city streets I decided to ride through theToday the neighbourhood is being revitalized due to its
residential area of Leaside, one of the most popularbeautiful architecture, established trees and favourable
residential areas in Toronto. Settled as early as thelocation close to downtown and Lake Ontario. Signs of
beginning of the 19th century by the Lea family, thegentrification are noticeable everywhere.
Town of Leaside came into being in 1913. Today manyThe Victorian mansions on Cowan Avenue impressed
houses from the early 20th century remain and areme and as I got closer to the Lake I can only imagine
being renovated or expanded. Leaside has becomewhat a beautiful residential district this must have been
particularly popular with real estate investors who buyin its heyday. I crossed the railway tracks and the
some of the small single story bungalows and convertGardener Expressway near Jameson Avenue and
them into two or three story mansions.arrived at the multi-purpose trail in Marilyn Bell Park on
Bayview Avenue marks the western boundary ofToronto’s lakefront.
Leaside and is a popular entertainment area with lotsClose to a century ago this was one of the most
of retail stores, cafes and restaurants. I cycled southpopular areas in Toronto and featured a large
on Bayview to the Intersection of Moore Avenueamusement park from 1922 onwards. The area was
where there is a local landmark: a concrete moosedrastically changed in the 1950s with the construction
that is located in front of a company calledof the Gardiner Expressway which essentially reduced
IntegraCare, a private nursing company.the parkland in half and led to the destruction of the
From April to October of 2000, the City of Torontoamusement park. Today, the only original buildings
was graced by 172 moose sculptures that wereremaining from this era are the Palais Royale (a
located all over the city and painted and decorated byrecently restored ballroom and banquet facility), and
local artists. The event was called “Moose inthe Sunnyside Bathing Pavilion which houses a popular
the City” and similar in idea to other animalwaterfront café.
sculpture campaigns in places such as Chicago,Despite these changes, Toronto’s western
Mexico City etc. After the completion of the campaignwaterfront in Humber Bay is hugely popular with
the moose were auctioned off for charitable purposespeople. Walkers, picnickers, inline skaters and bikers
and more than 75 local charities benefit from thismake extensive use of the Waterfront Trail. Three
unique fundraising idea. Events likebeach volleyball nets grace the narrow strip of sand in
“Toronto’s Running of thefront of the café and a boardwalk made from
Moose!” and “Moose Jam on Cityrecycled plastic invites for a walk on the waterfront. I
Streets” enlivened the campaign andgrabbed myself a slice of pizza and relaxed a bit on
entertained the public.bench, watching the comings and goings in a beautiful
I figured Integracare must have purchased one ofsunny spot by the water.
these moose sculptures and after doing someI then started heading eastwards along the Waterfront
research on the Internet I found out that theTrail past Ontario Place, a multi-purpose entertainment
moose’s name is “Florenceand seasonal amusement park. Opened in 1971 Ontario
Moosengale, RM (Registered Moose)”, herPlace consists of three artificial islands that feature
name obviously inspired by Florence Nightingale, thewalking trails, food and drink concessions, an IMAX
founder of modern nursing. Three Integracaretheatre located in a geodesic dome-shaped structure,
employees regularly create new costumes for thean amusement park for children and an outdoor
moose which has been dressed up as Santa Clause,concert facility, the Molson Amphitheatre.
a witch for Halloween, a pink Easter Bunny, a prisonImmediately adjacent to Ontario Place is Coronation
inmate, a lady bug, and in many other outfits. CurrentlyPark, a park centered around a royal oak tree that
Florence is dressed up as a rider in the Tour dewas planted in tribute to King George VI. Right in front
France, complete with a yellow jersey and anof the park is a marina that houses hundreds of
oversized bicycle.sailboats. Cycling further east I passed by the recently
Well, this moose always makes me chuckle and I trulyrenovated Tip Top Tailor Building, a historic property
applaud the efforts of the three ladies at Integracare inbuilt in 1929 in true Art Deco style.
brightening up the intersection of Bayview and MooreFrom here I snaked onto Queen’s Quay and
Avenue. From here I rode into the Mount Pleasantmade a stop at the Toronto Music Garden, a
Cemetery, Toronto’s largest cemetery whichwaterfront garden that was inspired by Bach’s
stretches from Bayview Avenue in the east to YongeFirst Suite for Unaccompanied Cello and designed by
Street in the west. Originally conceived in 1873, theinternationally renowned cellist Yo Yo Ma and
cemetery opening in late 1876 and became the finallandscape designer Julie Moir Messervy. The Toronto
resting place for more than 160,000 Toronto citizens.Music Garden features spiral-shaped walkways
The cemetery holds many local celebrities, includingsurrounded by lush shrubs and flowers and is
Frederick Banting - the co-discoverer of insulin, Timothyhighlighted by an outdoor amphitheatre that offers free
Eaton – a Canadian department store magnate,concerts to the public.
Hart Massey – a 19th century tycoon in the farmMy ride continued to Harbourfront, a popular
equipment business, Robert Simpson – anotherentertainment area at Toronto’s waterfront.
Canadian department store magnate, pianist GlennHarbourfront Centre, a former warehouse, today holds
Gould and W. Garfield Weston, a business magnatea high-end shopping centre, commercial office spaces
and member of one of Canada’s mostand condominiums. The bottom level also features
wealthy families. By accident I came across the graverestaurants and outdoor patios that look out on the
of William Lyon Mackenzie King, one ofdocking facilities for the many tourist boats that depart
Canada’s longest-serving and most influentialfrom here for harbour tours.
prime ministers.Free concerts are held every weekend at
Although inline-skating is prohibited it is possible to ride aHarbourfront on the Concert Stage while the World
bicycle in the cemetery and many people also use thisCafé and the International Marketplace feature
beautiful environment to go walking or jogging. Thefoods and merchandise from around the world.
gravestones in the western, older section of theAdditional cultural offerings are provided by the Power
cemetery are particularly beautiful, and its large treePlant Gallery, the Premiere Dance Theatre, the
collection makes it one of North America’sEnwave Theatre and the York Quay Centre. A
finest arboretums.Cuban music group was enchanting the crowd at the
I then crossed Yonge Street and rode west alongConcert Stage.
Heath Street in order to avoid the busy traffic along St.Finally, after an action-packed day full of explorations
Clair Avenue. The surrounding Forest Hilland almost 60 km of riding I got on my iron horse one
neighbourhood is one of Toronto’s mostlast time to make the 45 minute trek home along
affluent areas. Today many huge mansions grace theToronto’s lakefront. Summer in Toronto is
neighbourhood and two elite private schools, Upperamazing; I had cycled from secluded nature areas,
Canada College for boys, and the Bishop Strachanthrough a Victorian-era cemetery to a Latin festival,
School, a prestigious day and boarding school for girls,enjoyed the waterfront and caught two more free
are also located here.concerts in or near Harbourfront. There is so much
Underneath the canopy of leafy trees I turned onto agoing on in this city in the summer and the bicycle is
street called Lower Village Gate and unexpectedlythe ideal way to explore it.
found myself in Toronto’s Ravine system. One